De Librije
Jonnie en Therese Boer
Broerenkerkplein 13-15
8011 TW Zwolle
+31 (0) 38 421 2083
Web :
De Librije
September 24 - 2014, Zwolle.
It's well over an hour's drive from Amsterdam during rush hour but for this it's worth it. At least that what you expect ... :-) Driving up the old library (Library of the Broerenkerk / church of brothers) you'll see the small details already. People are (a)waiting you, umbrella and all. Taking your car and the evening can begin ... take your time, 4.5 hours is over in no time ....
The waiters and waitresses are everywhere, everybody his own task, and looking very smooth, like business as usuall and althought there are a lot it's never crowded never stiff. Before you know it you're already sipping from your first glass of ... Henriot - Blanc de blancs (champagne) in my case. And when gently all people come in - yes it's fully booked - it's show time before you know it. Thérèse and Jonnie already showed their faces - both to say hello - one with the 'carte des vins' the other with the 'menu'.
We went for the 5 course diner and accompanied wine chosen by the sommelier. Rather than eating a la carte I always go for the menu and hope to be dazzled by the chef and his team. I made some pictures but I was there for the food, so I'll show only a few ... rather read what was on our plates. I take pictures since long time of what I eat (far before the social media share it all) but now everybody is doing it ... I need to come up with something else ...
The menu is cleaver done. You got 4 'ranges' of ingredients, from every range (4-7 ingredients) you give your favourite ingredient, and that will be in your dish, accompanied with what the chef thinks combines best. That's really clever, looking at it it seems you have so much options but actually that's not the case. Cleaverly chosen ingredients will give you 2 dishes per 'course', nevertheless it's a great concept and you still have the lead.
But before all it happens ... amuses start to come in
To work up an appetite started of with 'Tea' made from Beetroot and herbs. Actually this was pretty nice. Nicely served in these China 'tea cups' served with a lit. Presentation and taste were good.
Followed by a 'plate' of the fruit de mers ... that was next to gorgeous and sublieme also so perfect of taste. And I know he kept it as close as possible to 'nature' it was so perfect. Dutch shrimps but fresh, that's not often on your plate. And don't leave anything behind ... the skin of the sole later on in the menu is now crafted into a kind of 'crisp' presented on the fish bone of that very sole ... Oysters in their shell of course, delicate dish with clams. Not to forget one of my favourites razor shell fish. See below picture ... it tasted like it looks ...
And when still enjoy this superb amuse ... one of the chefs preparing the on hand siganture dish for so many years at the Librije. Nice Dutch raw cow, oyster, kind of oyster dressing. And in one go all the different tastes ... terrific.
Since we took different ingredients it shows up as much more than a 5-course diner. But why not try it all .. :-)
And diner wasn't even started ...
Not to mention that bread, butter and olive oil are always on the table, as soon as there is something gone it's there again, no need to ask. Same for the water.
First course :
Milk (IJslander) cow, mushrooms, smoked eal and goatcheese or what to think of the crab, bulb of Tulip, gooseliver and curcuma.
What can you say ... presentation wise it all looked like a painting. Loved the taste but in my (humble) opinion I would have liked some more foie. I know it's all in the combination but this could be a bit more aswell as for the crab. The taste was impecable though ...
Second course :
Hammetjes van Urk (Monlfish) with in cabbage juice fermented vegetables, smoked Haddock and Hungarian Pig (it's the one with the wool)
Monkfish .. my favourite, this strong (flesh) fish has such delicate taste. And in comparison to the first dish here was the amount of Monkfish perfect. Combination was great. So nice to see that actually we're all looking more and more to what good restaurants are doing. I mean fermented vegetables it seems to be a trend - you saw it in places like this first (like forgotten vegetables).
in between - home made bread (from fermented seeds and grains) accompagnied with a blue grape goatbutter. That butter ... wouw what a combination ...
Third course :
Nordsea Sole, brown butter, juniper, potato and streaky bacon or the Red Mul, seafood, Baharat (Marcocan herb mix) with lemon Geranium (Storksbill)
The sole, 'seared' to perfection, the combination perfect. Also the use of Baharat with the Mul, it's so recognisable in the dish without being too dominant. Loved it .. both :-)
Fourth course :
Back of the Roe with pickled carrot (krootje) with nettle, wild engelica and the leg with elder buttermilk. Or .. the (kooi eend) Dutch Duck, sea weeds, duckliver and blue berries.
These two pieces of Roe ... tender, perfect cuisson and im combination something you probably can eat every day ... And what to think of the Duck ... no need to go for the French ... so tender and such taste ...
Fifth course :
Toasted chocolate, 'boerenjongens', pistache and green cheese
And than the most dearing combination of the night, and I'm still figuring out if I'll like it ... I thought the green cheese was a bit too much, really strong taste ... not sure ... I missed a bit of chocolate for the perfect combination. All together is was good, but - to my taste - too much 'Boerenjonges' and green cheese in comparison to the toasted chocolate.
Sixt course :
Summer strawberries, rubarb, watermint and a honey mascarpone
This was a really fresh dessert, I loved it, my table partner a little less (accidity) that I love.... And hadn't expact reading the ingredients as they are pointed out here. But the combination of sweet, with mascarpone and watermint ... true delight ....
Coffee:
Espresso with a choice of bonbons and 4 bonbons in 4 different tastes
Oke ... and this I dare to say ... with the first dish I talked something about the amount of some ingredients but coffee ... I know my coffee, dare to say I had one of the best teachers ever and he's still in the business and an Oracle for many coffeelovers. Think there is knowbody who doesn't know him ... and sorry to say Jonnie and Thérèse ... this can be better. Water was to hot, espresso was a bit burned ... you could even see that without tasting. And the cutlery looks perfect but way to thin, it looses it's temperature way to quick .... My partner in crime for the evening asked for milk with her coffee ... and that was presented heated ... now that I do love ... small things. But nevertheless .. espresso can be better.
The friandises to go with it were good ... Maybe could have be a bit more exciting especially looking at the overall menu ...
It's not that I do have the skills to critise this menu. It was perfect. Point. But in my humble opinion I should be able to say things I see and taste. And for what's worth it .. Go back without thinking. First go to - his sister in Amsterdam and wait till after the new location in Zwolle I think. :-) It was a memorable diner, it was perfect and I loved it.
To go:
His eatable 'stickie'.
Sketch
The menu card and condiments
Rilette de Canard
